.. can anyone confirm this? what can I do in this case?
does it need to be rewound? can I do it myself?
stator problem?
stator problem?
Hi, some time ago I noticed my gen light not going off at any time but as long as the bike behaved ok I didnt pay any attention to it. Now after I fried two accumulators I decided to check my alternator for problems ... I found out that I have a dead short between the two wires going out of the alternator to the body. Now I figure its not supposed to be this way .. I was todl that my stator is probably had it .. can anyone confirm this?
what can I do in this case?
does it need to be rewound? can I do it myself?
.. can anyone confirm this? what can I do in this case?
does it need to be rewound? can I do it myself?
alt
I could be wrong but I thought you should have continuity through your alternator wires. Perhaps someone more switched on (boom boom, pun fully intended) electrically can shed some light (it was an accident that time) on the subject. I think it`s only an issue when there is continuity to earth from the wires.
Not quite sure what you mean by an acumulator.........battery perhaps??
Best way to check charging systems is if they are charging. Hook a multi-meter to the battery and fire her up. Usually they`ll charge at around 13.5V and vary just a little as the engine is reved above idle.
On my SS the charge light stays on until the battery is fully chatged at which time it dims and then goes out. My head light when switched on at idle will get a little brighter too as she`s reved off idle. It`s also worth pointing out that it`s important to not disconnect the battery while running. Not sure on Ducs but know that some charging systems will fry the diodes instantly. Hope this helps
Not quite sure what you mean by an acumulator.........battery perhaps??
Best way to check charging systems is if they are charging. Hook a multi-meter to the battery and fire her up. Usually they`ll charge at around 13.5V and vary just a little as the engine is reved above idle.
On my SS the charge light stays on until the battery is fully chatged at which time it dims and then goes out. My head light when switched on at idle will get a little brighter too as she`s reved off idle. It`s also worth pointing out that it`s important to not disconnect the battery while running. Not sure on Ducs but know that some charging systems will fry the diodes instantly. Hope this helps
Now your voltmeter (red box) could be gone but it is a fairly simple device as is the alternator.
I suspect that you mean regulator (rectangle finned case located above fuse panel)
Before you do anything else though and given it sounds like you have already blown two regulators, then one critical aspect of fitting a regulator is an electrically sound connection betweeen the body of the regulator and the battery's earth.
In theory the bolts connecting the reg body to the frame should do this but ... corosion, loose bolts etc can lead to loss of continuity. Once the reg loses connection with the battery the diodes inside the reg get fried.
For absolute certaintity it is best to connect a wire from underside of securing bolt at rear of reg (use a soldered circular connector on wire) to where the battery's earth strap connects to the frame.
Assuming your existing reg is still OK, then do above then do Lumpy's tests. If no sign of charging at battery then either the reg you hav is fried or maybe the voltmeter's relay has failed.
good luck
Mick
I suspect that you mean regulator (rectangle finned case located above fuse panel)
Before you do anything else though and given it sounds like you have already blown two regulators, then one critical aspect of fitting a regulator is an electrically sound connection betweeen the body of the regulator and the battery's earth.
In theory the bolts connecting the reg body to the frame should do this but ... corosion, loose bolts etc can lead to loss of continuity. Once the reg loses connection with the battery the diodes inside the reg get fried.
For absolute certaintity it is best to connect a wire from underside of securing bolt at rear of reg (use a soldered circular connector on wire) to where the battery's earth strap connects to the frame.
Assuming your existing reg is still OK, then do above then do Lumpy's tests. If no sign of charging at battery then either the reg you hav is fried or maybe the voltmeter's relay has failed.
good luck
Mick
alt
Is that with both wires disconnected from the regulator?? If so maybe pop your RH side cover off and pay close attention to the wires where they come through the cable gland in the side cover. The insulation is known to go rotten from the oil and heat.
Well had my stator rewound and now the problems began.
I believe that my regulator has crossed to the other side I measured the his output and it was 0.5-1V a second check showed that it jumped between 0.5 and 3.5 V ( I guess this is not normal ... can anyone help me with troublshooting the regulator to make sure it is dead or alive?
and the worst problem ... took the bike for a 50 km ride and then it died ... black plugs. I noticed that each time the battery dies(and it died earlier) the bike keeps getting black plugs ... what can be the reason for that? anyone had this problem?
I believe that my regulator has crossed to the other side
I measured the his output and it was 0.5-1V a second check showed that it jumped between 0.5 and 3.5 V ( I guess this is not normal ... can anyone help me with troublshooting the regulator to make sure it is dead or alive?and the worst problem ... took the bike for a 50 km ride and then it died ... black plugs. I noticed that each time the battery dies(and it died earlier) the bike keeps getting black plugs ... what can be the reason for that? anyone had this problem?
uh-oh
The bike will stop when the battery stops. If I`m not mistaken you have a Bosch ignish in which case you need volts to make spark. If your reg is`nt playing the game it won`t charge and.............black plugs
One of the most important things and easy things to check on the reg is that it has a good earth. That is, a wire coming from the earth terminal and bolted to the frame in a position where the paint has been scraped off and it is making good contact to get battery -negati.ve.
It`s worth noting that a charging system must have a battery to charge. Not sure about Duc`s but some automotive systems need a battery to charge or they blow the diodes instantly if the battery is disconnected while they are running
One of the most important things and easy things to check on the reg is that it has a good earth. That is, a wire coming from the earth terminal and bolted to the frame in a position where the paint has been scraped off and it is making good contact to get battery -negati.ve.
It`s worth noting that a charging system must have a battery to charge. Not sure about Duc`s but some automotive systems need a battery to charge or they blow the diodes instantly if the battery is disconnected while they are running
Hashashan,
when you say the battery has 'died' previously are you talking about the same battery and if so how did you recharge it? If via a battery recharger (rather via alternator/regulator on bike) then it is possible that your battery is near terminal. I would have thought that you would get more than 50k's of sparking from a fully charged battery (assuming you didn't have headlight on). Issue with a failed battery is that it can compromise regulator even though all your connections are sound. (Did you check continuity with meter from regulator body (not securing bolt) to earth terminal of battery?)
Mick
when you say the battery has 'died' previously are you talking about the same battery and if so how did you recharge it? If via a battery recharger (rather via alternator/regulator on bike) then it is possible that your battery is near terminal. I would have thought that you would get more than 50k's of sparking from a fully charged battery (assuming you didn't have headlight on). Issue with a failed battery is that it can compromise regulator even though all your connections are sound. (Did you check continuity with meter from regulator body (not securing bolt) to earth terminal of battery?)
Mick