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Hello all,

Just completed registration to Club Bevel Heaven two minutes ago! Just a couple of quick queries. Imported my 1982 Darmah from the USA last year and it's been running rough from day one. Got rid of the fuel and replaced with fresh juice and put in new plugs. I don't claim to be mechanically minded but a local bike dealer here claims I'd need to clean out the carbs and replace carby jets, as the carbs were setup for US conditions..sound right? My nearest Ducati dealer mechanic is around five to six hours drive away here in Qld. Just one other thing..always seems to be a small amount of oil between the crankcase fins at the front, close to the oil filler plug after a short ride. Would it just be seeping from the filler plug? I haven't found a tool yet to nip up on the plug.

cheers
Mozz

G'day Mozz,

You've made a great choice ! Darmah's aren't the most valuable bevel, but they are a good all round bike to own and ride.

Running rough could be a number of things, inc carb issues. A couple of questions to start. What carbs are on the bike IE: 32's, 40's or other ?? Also what plugs have you fitted and what gap ??

There are some clever people on this forum who I'm sure will assist in working through some options to get you running as it should.

Any consolation, my Darmah weeps in the same place. only a very small amount so I haven't bothered to go to any great lengths to rectify. Could be your filler plug, as they have an Aluminium washer under the head. could also be a weep from the the join in the cases.

Anyway, that's my two bobs worth, maybe those of greater knowledge will chime in !
Good luck
Rick.

G'day Rick,

Thanks for the reply and tips! Yeah, I agree I've made a great choice too! I realise the Darmah isn't quite up to the collectible level of an SS or whatever but you never know down the track. The main reason I got it though was to have a bit of fun and relive some of the 80's..haha.

The carb's are the standard 32's and the plugs are NGK B7HS (could be B6HS..better check tonight) set at 0.6mm gap. The guy I bought it from had the same plugs and I confirmed this on the NGK website chart. Once the old girl had coughed and spluttered for a short while on the fresh Oz fuel it seemed to run a whole lot better. When I first got it, It wouldn't idle at all until I changed the fuel and plugs. She's pretty cold on startup for a few minutes but once you go around the block it seems to run fairly well.

Ah well..thanks for your two bob's worth Rick, appreciate it and look forward to anyone else's comments.

cheers
Moz

Rebuild your carbies (everything soft), replace intake manifold insulators and sync the carbs.. Should do the trick.

Hi Steve,

Good to hear from you! I gather the rebuild of carbs refers to the PHF Rebuild Kit which you sell for $72.50? And do you think in the long run I'd be better off with the Aluminium Manifold Insulators? The carbs on this bike are fitted with some type of connection on the inlet manifold to the head to apparently make the sync of the carbs easier. I think you have a link somewhere on this site on how to properly sync the carbs..can you send me that please.

thanks
Mozz

Yes and yes. Not too difficult to find that in the carb and fuel related section, it's a stickie so always on top....

http://www.bevelheaven.com/~BB/phpBB3/v ... ?f=26&t=10

Hi Steve,

Thanks..I'm pretty sure the seller of my bike stated in his write up on eBay that he'd reconditioned the carb's, replacing gaskets, seals, etc. Naturally I have no proof of this. Would it be prudent then to rebuild the carbs with the kits anyway?

As mentioned in my first post, I'm not that mechanically minded and due to lack of space and tools I would need to have a local mechanic do the work. Just wondering, if I source the parts and had someone do the work they wouldn't need to be "Ducati trained" necessarily? The local mechanic works in a shop which sells and services mainly Jap bikes and new Nortons. He would have the vacuum gauges, etc I would reckon. Might even be a good idea to print off your instructions and take it to him.

I just don't want someone to rip me off basically.

cheers
Mozz

they just need to be familier with dellortos. Anyone mechanical can rebuild the carbs. Will they recognize that something is not right to begin with and not just re install new [wrong] bits? It isn;t really all tht simple a deal since the orings are all so similar in size and I have seen so many dells shipped to me for rebuild thatwere missing all sorts of things - its no wonder the bike wasn't running all that well...

Steve is right on! Carb rebuild and new insulators sorted my bike--had the same problem as yours.

I can't help thinking of the Ignition timing too. The note from the silencers just seems to be out of synch...hard to explain here. Seems to be a fairly strong BLAT, BLAT, BLAT pulse from the rear cylinder when I've got my fingers over the end of the silencer. Would the timing be an issue or is it more so the carby's? The guy I bought it off said he had to rectify an oil leak at the rear cylinder bevel drive tube and had the head off but didn't need to adjust any valve clearance, etc. Didn't do a great job though..it still leaks some oil from there until the engine's hot.

cheers
Moz

Sorry...meant to add in last post that the front cylinder doesn't seem to have as strong an exhaust pulse when I've got my fingers over the end of the silencer

Carby sync will cure that. Did you read the "how to" post?

G'day Steve,

Thanks for that. Yes, did read the "how to" post. Hope to get this done soon. Will update with a successful post, I hope.

cheers
Moz

G'day Moz,
Where are you in Qld?
I am in Central Qld and have all the info and gear for the Darmahs so could help you out.
Regards,

G'day Rad,

I'm in CQ as well..Rocky to be precise. Good to hear from a local

cheers
Mozz