<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

My 860 GT is being delivered at the end of the week, in a couple of crates. It is supposed to be in good/excellent shape, only disasembled. The engine needs rings. While I have it torn down what kind of performance upgrades should I do. Am planning on 40mm intake valves, polished combustion chambers, clean up on intake ports, polish exhaust ports, wisco pistons (.020 over) with 10.5:1 compression and a high performance cam shaft (750 sport?) . Will also have bottom end checked for wear. Am going to use stock carbs with K&N pod filters and conti replica exhaust. What I would like to know is what other kinds of things to look for when rebuilding the bike;problem areas etc.Iwould like to use a 750 GT tank, Sport side covers, and 750 sport fenders. Want to paint the whole bike Ferrari Red (frame included), with black exhaust, low bars, and polished aluminum wheels with stainless spokes. Anyone know if the 750 body work will fit the 860 frame? I need to know where to get the fiberglass replica bodywork to do this if it will fit. Could someone also suggest some books and manuals that I should purchase. Any help at all would be appreciated........Thanks.....Ducati Dew

This is more or less what my buddy did after he purchased my 860GT. I still don't think it was quite as fast as an SS though even after all that.

Problem areas include chrome flaking off the rocker arm surfaces that bear against the camshaft, switchgear and fusebox, valve guides and voltage regulator. I never had any problems with the ignition and charging systems apart from the regulator.

I put K&Ns on mine and a two-into-one exhaust and found it started and ran better.

I would put it together first to see what you have before making any big changes.

if you do all that to top end i think old bottom end will go omg bang rattle rattle bang bang

Actually, the work I have planned will make the bike run smoother and have more torque. It will only increase the redline 500 more RPM or so with the hotter camshaft. Of course, I won't be riding at redline very often so why should the bottom end go bad if it checks out OK. I was under the impression that the 860/900 engines had a stronger bottom end than the 750s, of course I am new to bevel drives and don't know that much about them. The hot rod work would make the bike just about equal to a 750 Sport with a big bore kit. Then again, maybe you are just kiddin'.

Wasn't it the engines from 78 on that had the heavier crank bearings and Bosch electronics that had the better bottom end ?

plenty of ducati books and manuals in stock here

http://shop.bevelheaven.com/SearchResul ... egoryID=10

Cleaning up the ports will help a bit.Higher compression will wake it up alot.The only problem with the Wiseco pistons that they list is that they are heavier than the stock pistons. In normal street use they should be ok. I wouldn't bother with hotter cams and bigger valves the increase in power would only be on the top end and to be effective the compression should be higher than 10.5 to 1. The biggest thing to consider is the crank and ignition. The original Ducati ign. stators are prone to fail and at 25yrs. old it's almost a given that it has expired.Steve used to list an ignition by DMC as a replacement and I think Silent-Hetik in Germany also makes an ign. replacement. Last I looked it was about $800 The cranks are fairly robust if treated with respect but hard use gets expensive really quick! Rod sets run about $1200. Installation extra.If you don't know the history of the bike I'd prepare for the worst. In response to your other posts about bodywork I think the 860 frame is different enough from the 750 that the tank and sidecovers would look out of place.Besides the 860 was a good looking bike to begin with. It certainly won't be mistaken for a Kawazukahada. Spend the money on some alloy rims and stainless spokes and another disc and caliper.

wdietz186 wrote:Cleaning up the ports will help a bit.Higher compression will wake it up alot.The only problem with the Wiseco pistons that they list is that they are heavier than the stock pistons. In normal street use they should be ok. I wouldn't bother with hotter cams and bigger valves the increase in power would only be on the top end and to be effective the compression should be higher than 10.5 to 1. The biggest thing to consider is the crank and ignition. The original Ducati ign. stators are prone to fail and at 25yrs. old it's almost a given that it has expired.Steve used to list an ignition by DMC as a replacement and I think Silent-Hetik in Germany also makes an ign. replacement. Last I looked it was about $800 The cranks are fairly robust if treated with respect but hard use gets expensive really quick! Rod sets run about $1200. Installation extra.If you don't know the history of the bike I'd prepare for the worst. In response to your other posts about bodywork I think the 860 frame is different enough from the 750 that the tank and sidecovers would look out of place.Besides the 860 was a good looking bike to begin with. It certainly won't be mistaken for a Kawazukahada. Spend the money on some alloy rims and stainless spokes and another disc and caliper.

Thanks for the advise, I don't know much about these bikes yet and really want to learn. I have read that the Wiseco pistons are heavier, thought I could take a little off each one to make it match the stock weight. As I understand it, the piston skirts are a good place to do a little carving. If the 750 Sport cam fits, shouldn't it do OK with the 10.5:1 pistons. I think the Sport had less compression than 10.5:1. From what everyone has said, the frames of the 750 and 860 are different. I will have to see if I can modify a replica 750 tank to fit or I will probably just use the 860 tank and get some different fenders and sidecovers. I am planning on the stainless spokes and aluminum wheels. I did this on my ironhead Sporty bobber and it looks great. I wonder if the sporty wheels (40 spoke, I think) will work on the duc? I have found a set for cheap and they are pretty robust wheels. Again, thanks for your input and info........Dewey .

dewjantim

I ask again is the GTS frame the same as a SD ????

Look below is this what you are trying to achieve ???
This mounted to a SSD frame that is much the same as a std SD frame

biggest problem you'll have is with your shin when you kick it over
until your shin is bruised and the pain is etched into your long term memory you'll keep smashing it on footpeg
just remember when you do it-i told you so

Martin, I don't know if the GTS and SD frames are the same or not. I am new to this bevel drive stuff and need to read a few books, which Steve has recommended. I have some literature which is to be mailed to me next week which came with the bike. Rex forgot to bring it when he brought the bike today. I do know that the bike pictured is a real looker. If the SD stuff fits I would gladly use it instead of the 750 .

Nottonight68, I've had high compression sprotsters and high compression singles before, and even had Sportster Knee a few times. Hopefully I can handle it...... it has an electric starter also.....even though I understand that it shouldn't be used.....Thanks for everyone's input .......Dewey.

its not a matter of high compression or your incompetance. its design-anyway kick it over a few times -you'll see what i mean

In that case, thanks for the warning..... .....Dewey.

my brother has a 77 sportster- he's just restored it
unlike you i dont think he'll ever come over to the dark side

I have had three Ducati's before, a 900SS (rubber band), 904 Paso, and an Allazurra SS (it said Ducati on the engine anyway) then I went over to the dark side and bought a few sportys. Now I am following the force back into the light , I just have to trade my PBR for Chanti......hahaha..... Dewey .