What Model Duke had this engine side cover ???

Craig in France · Post by **Craig in France** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 5:12 am

Yeh, I had the same thought myself. I can't remember just how much clear space there is behind that cover, but I'm fairly sure it ain't much ...

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 5:26 am

yup,definitly

on ss -webbing in side cover ,bearing.flywheel
to my way of thinking a dip stick needs to go into the sump,and that aint go to happen.even if it did it would be no use during a pitstop cause oil would throughout engine not in sump
the pic with tube connected to hole makes me think they knew they were using oil and simply filled tube with oil quickly during some pit stops,
as we know using standard filler hole would be a tad slow

cheers
steve

Craig in France · Post by **Craig in France** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 8:12 am

nottonight68 wrote: as we know using standard filler hole would be a tad slow
steve

But bloody funny to watch!

Ciao

Craig

abmartin · Post by **abmartin** » Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:47 pm

Great minds think alike! I was looking at my 900SS this morning and wondering how the dipstick idea would work. Anyone who has taken the clutch cover off realizes that there is only residual oil there, and the standard dipstick in the sump is marked at a much lower level. It must be just an oil fill, which in itself isn't a bad idea since it can be a bugger to add oil to the sump otherwise.

regards,

Bruce

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 2:23 am

yea but ugly as

racing use only

wdietz186 · Post by **wdietz186** » Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:58 pm

Nottonight has a good point .If the oil level was high enough to be measured in the primary drive area the windage losses from the crank dragging through 1 in. of oil would be tremendous. It is most likely a fill point and they have a level tube or sight glass on the sump. With NCR being out the back door of the factory special castings probably wern't too great of a problem.

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 12:18 am

another thought-presumeably during pit stops,the motor is running-without the tube youd wear the oil you poured in due to fly wheel & clutch spinning

Craig in France · Post by **Craig in France** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:24 am

abmartin wrote: ... which in itself isn't a bad idea since it can be a bugger to add oil to the sump otherwise.

regards,

Bruce

Hi Bruce,

The trick I've been told is to fill thru the clutch adjustment cover, rather than grubbing around below.

Of course, you've no way of knowing whether you've over-filled or not ... well, not until you've checked the condition of the air filter, that is. (Or, if not running an air filter, watched the oil running out of the breather tune, preferably NOT over the back tire ...)

Ciao

Craig

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 3:53 am

say what-didnt understand any of that

Craig in France · Post by **Craig in France** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 5:23 am

nottonight68 wrote:say what-didnt understand any of that

Ok, I guess I was a bit quick there ...

This is something Tony Brancato told me they (he and Steve Wynne, amongst others) used to do when racing.

The cover is the one arrowed below:

Remove one screw, loosen the other so the cover swings down, stick a funnel down the hole, squeeze in half a pint of oil and fit the cover back on ...

And the rider won't even realise it's happened

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 11:11 am

thanks-clear as now

Aussiess · Post by **Aussiess** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 4:55 pm

Martin,
On my recently completed NCR replica I have had a sidecover fitted identical in all but the obviously aftermarket oil pickup weld-in.
The sidecover is actually available from Ian Gowanloch, it has the oilfiller included and the "blankoff hole" you have filled with a $1 coin.
If I was to fit an oil cooler, I would look at this positioning of the feedpoint, obviously the idea is to circulate as much oil as quickly as possible via a cooler.
The cases are available on request from Gowys and I think he even has a picture on his website.
This was a solution I needed when I dismantled the former electric start Drama engine to begin its new life , and required a new sidecase (along with the shorter gear selector shaft).
I also took the opportunity to fit a straightcut primary set from NOVA engineering in England, this was a really good move, and their workmanship better than a Vee Two setup I had to compare with at the same time.
many other mods hae been done, but thats another story for later

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:45 pm

craig-thats the cover im currently trying to get off mine
i've tried everything but cant budge the screws
doubt they'll drill out without doing damage
i'm scratching my head at the moment

steve

Craig in France · Post by **Craig in France** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 12:54 am

nottonight68 wrote:craig-thats the cover im currently trying to get off mine
i've tried everything but cant budge the screws
doubt they'll drill out without doing damage
i'm scratching my head at the moment

steve

Yeh, Steve, they can be a right PITA. Steel in ally is rarely a good mix ... The good news is that they aren't too long, so there isn't a lot of thread to get seized up.

Try to not damage the screw slots. You really don't want to go down the route of drilling the screws out ...

Possibilities:
1. Get the longest bladed, carpenters-type screwdriver you can find and which fits the slots as best as poss.

2. Shock the buggers out using an impact driver with, again, the best fitting bit you can fiind.

3. Take the engine to someone with a rattle gun.

Good luck!

Ciao

Craig

nottonight68 · Post by **nottonight68** » Thu Nov 20, 2008 1:03 am

yup
impact driver is my next avenue
i dont have one
wont be going down the drill route
as i've discovered some parts are best not molested with

steve