<-=- Club Bevel Heaven -=->

Thanks Steve.

Fuel tap on the right side is leaking. I'm getting ready to offer it (1980 900SS) up for sale and need to get these little problems fixed. I'll be buying a pair but I'm not sure of the thread size to order. Any input will be appreciated.

Gordon

No one posted here for seven years? I'm going to be getting the 900 set up for selling and need to
change the oil, bleed the brakes etc. Have there been any oils over the last seven years that have come on the market that are improved over the ones mentioned here?
Gordon

Don't know where in MI you are, but these guys had one on display and either still have it or know where it is. Ask for Kevin. http://www.ducatidetroit.com/company/location-hours/
Gordon

Looked through some old exploded photos in a Haynes manual and the only thing close had to do with the front master cylinder. It wasn't clear from the drawing where in went.

Gordon

Yeah, I figured that enough oil would circulate to keep the motor happy, but if there is MORE oil to circulate around, would that not be a plus and help with cooling also, hence less stress on the engine?

Gordon

1980 900 SS. Should I put new oil in 'til it shows correctly on the dipstick, or remove the left side cover/plate and put in the amount shown in the manual? Although I've never tried it, I've heard that the amount in the manual cannot be put in through the dipstick hole. Is this correct, and would ...

Nope. Not that one. On the underbelly of the motor. A small, 10mm diameter, brass, slotted screw which I believe holds the plastic, captive part that the long filter screen goes into. I just need verification that I can, indeed remove this without causing a problem.

Gordon

There is an annoying drip coming from the brass screw at the bottom of the motor. According to my research, it is a screw holding the receiving end of the filter screen. I need to know if it is okay to remove this without causing any problems so that I can perhaps put some type of thread sealer on ...

Just had this same problem on my MZ. Had to remove the drive and take it over to the bench for penetrating oil and heat gun application. Got it out without damaging anything. Rust and no grease were the causes.

Gordon

Wow. No action here since June. Just found this at the local feed/u-haul store.
http://www.bradpennracing.com/Products/ ... AE-50.aspx

Anyone familiar with this? Looks like it might be the ticket.

Gordon
1980 900SS

Went for a shakedown ride today. The ignition switch was incorrectly wired and the lights would come on when the bike was turned on. Temporarily took care of that and all seemed well on the 40 mile ride today. Will have to look to see if there is a short somewhere in the lighting circuit. Other than ...

Thanks Craig. I'll definitely be watching the whole electrical system. I don't usually go for extended rides so it won't be hard. Sure would be nice if someone would put up what should be going on instead of all this speculation and angst.

Gordon

Just took readings. Here's what I have.
Stator volts @ idle-15v. @3000rpm surge to 24v
Stator amps@ idle-13a
R/R volts @ idle taken at battery terminals-15v. @3000rpm-16.11v. @4500rpm-16.29v.
Looks like the R/R is doing its job. Now if only it would stop raining I could give it a road test.

Hi Craig. Thanks for the info. I'll check the amperage next time I start it up. I started checking why the headlight was coming on when the ignition switch was turned on and found some wires had removed themselves from their connectors' so I've been working on that recently. Also the ignition switch ...